Saturday, 1 December 2012

Holidays In Croatia - The Costa Brava: Leaving The Package Tour On The Shelf


Like the extended necks of great dinosaurs, weathered rock formations jut into the sea. Spurting tenacious pines, age-old and craggy, towering cliff faces. Clear as glass but for the stirring of the breeze, turquoise waters. Secret caves and labyrinthine tunnels head for exciting hidden beaches. Tranquil bays where soft-lapping waves cool sun-baked feet. Rock-strewn coves where idle chat and laughter rebounds off the cliffs.

Mingling with the laughter and idle chat, the aroma of fresh fish sizzling on the barbeque dances a jig across your taste buds and the sound of popping corks is sucked up into the cliffs. The salty breeze stings your lips; the sun kisses your cheeks. You are surrounded by an aura of calm and indisputable beauty.

Perhaps, a tropical island, some place far away? What is this place that radiates such stunning beauty?

And it's only a two hour flight from the UK, it's Spain's Costa Brava. No!

Mention the Costa Brava to anyone thinking of booking their summer holiday and you may be met with a raised eyebrow or two.

High rise concrete jungles to store the travellers during their two week package of sunburn and lager, and of course, fish 'n' chips, all day English breakfasts, tourist demand on this coast throughout the decades led to over development and 'Britainisation' - burger bar littered promenades, sadly.

Then bundled their straw donkeys under their arms and exchanged the baton with the next consignment fresh off the plane, mile-long beaches and free-flowing wine of which they were deprived at home, they took their fill of the sun. This is where it all started in the 1950s when hoards of tourists arrived in old warplanes and laid out their beach towels for the first time. The Costa Brava was the birthplace of the package tour.

But perhaps the effect was not all positive. The interest in their products meant that they could barely keep up with demand, and for the artisan, jobs were now available for non-skilled workers. Villagers and property developers were to be overwhelmed by the opportunities on offer, this influx of tourists brought advantages for the Spanish locals: shop owners, of course.

Uninterrupted mountain-to-coast scenery was blasted away to make room for high rise cellblocks. Commercialised pay-at-the-door twice-nightly performances, impromptu displays of traditional song and dance dissolved into staged, raw. The intrinsic gastronomy moved aside to make room for the fast-food demands of the tourists. Some of the more popular resorts started to lose their true cultural identity.

A shift back to customary values was starting to emerge. And mouth-watering cuisine, exhilarating fiestas, somewhere to experience age-old traditions, they began to promote their beautiful regions for what they were: places of cultural interest. Local governments started to clean up their resorts. Changes started to occur, then towards the end of the eighties and into the nineties.

Has now become important all over again, what the traveller initially sought from Spain way before the tourist boom -- endless views from mountain to sea -- the fun of trying to communicate in a different language -- the delight of trying unfamiliar cuisine -- and generally a get away from the British norm, full circle.

Some of Britain's biggest travel firms have recently been axing thousands of Spanish holidays from their brochures. Package tours to the Costas are on the decline, at the same time.

But it is now attracting a different type of tourist. However, spain remains a hugely popular tourist destination.

And is welcoming with open arms the discerning tourist, it is shaking off the reputation that labelled the Costas so unfairly, thankfully.

This is the type of tourist that many resorts on the Costa Brava are now attracting, thankfully. Times and length of stay that suits them, selecting their means of travel from the various on offer and choosing the dates, hand-picking their accommodation and board, the traveller who turns their nose up at the package tour is the independent type who arranges their holiday to suit themselves.

Bustling nightlife, and of course, this is where you'll find your amusement arcades and water parks. Platja D'Aro or S'Agaro, blanes, go to Lloret de Mar, if you want lively. You'll be ok, as long as you do your homework before you book your holiday on the Costa Brava. Why not? And let them have their fun! Not far from Barcelona, there are still a few more animated resorts on this coastline that starts on the French border at Port Bou and descends to Blanes, yes.

Then try one of these delightful resorts: gathering inspiration for their work, dali and Chagall walked themselves in years past, to walk the paths where artists like Picasso, if you want to drink in the culture and appreciate scenery unobliterated by high rise buildings, sample the delights of the world renowned Catalan Cuisine and taste bud stimulating fish and seafood; if you want to experience the sheer beauty of this stunning coastline;

Tossa de Mar http://www.tossacostabrava.com/

With only two discos neatly tucked away into the background, the nightlife is formed of enjoyable little bars and is not at all boisterous. Most of which specialise in fish and seafood, quality restaurants, there are plenty of delightful. Here there is a certain ambience that draws people back year after year. So the stunning views remain unspoilt, in Tossa there are strictly no high-rise buildings. The turrets of this old walled town date back to the 12th Century and dominate most of the views throughout the town. And overlooked by a wonderful castle that blends seamlessly into the town, tossa is steeped in history. Lloret de Mar, tossa de Mar is a quaint and lovely resort neighbouring one of the more lively and well-known resorts.

Particularly in the nearby cove of Cala Salions, water sports lovers are well catered for here. The Porta Ferrada, of particular notability here is the hermitage of Sant Grau and the Gothic church with its celebrated iron gate. But perhaps not as much as Platja D'Aro and S'Agaro, it has seen some commercialisation. Surrounded by pine and oak-filled woods, sant Feliu de Guixols This town is at the heart of the Costa Brava.

Its fishing port is one of the leaders on this coast and offers a lively nightlife at its marina. Also here are the remains of the Greek settlement of Rhode. Is still of great architectural interest, although in ruins, roses has a 16th Century fortress which. You'll find this delightful town, roses Travelling south from the Costa Brava's first resort Port Bou.

The Museum of l'Emporda and the Toy Museum, the parish church of Sant Pere, also of interest in Figueres is the castle fortress of Sant Ferran. The traditional dance of Catalonia, figueres is also the birthplace of the Sardana dance. Where the artist is buried, the town is much visited for its Dali Museum. Best-known as the birthplace of surrealist artist Salvador Dali, figueres A few kilometres inland from Roses in the heart of Catalonia you'll find Figueres.

The most visited archaeological site in Catalonia; ries, this is also the point of entry to the Roman colony of Empú. Two yacht clubs and a number of marinas, the resort offers much for the water sport enthusiast. It is a delightful fishing village well known for its delicious sardines. L'Escala is a small holiday resort at the southern end of the Gulf of Roses, l'Escala Back on the coast.

It is split into two by The River Onyar. Is the Costa Brava capital, inland and south of L'Escala, girona Girona.

Stone walls and offering an abundance of shops, with its winding streets shaded by tall, also worthy of a visit is the Jewish Quarter. Is a fusion of many different historical periods and styles, like many of Spain's cathedrals, which, the old quarter is highlighted by the Cathedral.

Sant Feliu and Sant Pere de Galligants highlight the religious background of the region, and the museums of archaeology and history are of notable interest whilst the churches of Sant Nicolau, the old City Walls, the Twelfth Century Arab Baths.

Getting to the Costa Brava

With average transfer times of one hour, particularly for the more northern resorts on the coast, girona is the more popular choice. There are two major airports serving this region: Barcelona and Girona.

Then taking the train or driving down through Spain, other travel options include taking a ferry from Plymouth to Santander or from Portsmouth to Bilbao. There are also a range of scheduled and charter flights to choose from. The low cost airlines offer several flights a day to both Girona and Barcelona.

Then follow the TGV Atlantique route to Barcelona or take the Elipsos service to Girona, or letting the train take the strain by taking the Eurostar to Paris, there is also the option of taking a coach to Barcelona and Girona.

Staying on the Costa Brava

Visit the websites for each resort for recommendations. Ranging from luxurious to basic, there is a range of accommodation to choose from. Apartments and campsites abound, hostels, hotels.

Romesco (spicy sauce), sarsuela and suquet de peix (fish casserole), graellada de peix i marisc (grilled fish and seafood), cargols a la llauna (snails), botifarra amb mongetes (sausage with white beans), garlic and olive oil), pa amb tomaquet (toasted bread rubbed with tomato, rovellons a la llauna (wild mushrooms), then look for some of these dishes: Escalivada (baked vegetable salad), renowned throughout the world for its diversity, if you want to try real Catalan cuisine. There are eateries catering for all tastes, eating on the Costa Brava Most coastal resorts are awash with fish and seafood restaurants but of course.

Tortells (pastry rings), torrons (almond sweets), panellets (marzipan cakes), crema cremada (caramelized custard cream), bunyols (fritters). . . And for dessert.

You'll need to venture further down south, but if you are looking for winter sun, spring and autumn remain nicely warm. June and September are perfect if you love the sun but prefer a more bearable climate, may. Reaching high twenties and early thirties, temperatures soar during July and August. You'll find a slightly gentler climate than on the more southerly Costas, when to go On the Costa Brava.

You'll find yourself wanting more, you can be sure that once you indulge into the true spirit, but whatever their roots! But some also include age old pagan traditions, many are based around religions celebrations. Each town has its own traditional celebrations and the cultural programmes for each resort are usually available from the local tourist offices. Catalonia celebrates its fair share of fiestas, like all the other regions of Spain.

Why not do some research and time your visit to coincide with a fiesta?

It is the equivalent of the UK Valentines Day. And in Barcelona you'll find Las Ramblas lined with stall upon stall of books, couples exchange books and roses, on this day. Perhaps one of Catalonia's most important feasts is that of Sant Jordi - Saint George - the patron saint of Catalonia.

The Region's National Day is 11 September and is celebrated with Castellers and Sardanas.

Castellers means castle builders and involves teams of enthusiasts forming impressive human towers -- castells -- that can be up to ten people high.

Holding hands up in the air and coordinating the steps in accordance with a complex set of rules, it is danced in a circle. It is an open dance that can be joined and left again at any time. Which is truly Catalan, the Sardana is a very old dance.

The rugged coast awaits you! Artistic heritage; historic monuments; natural beauty. Now a haven for the discerning tourist, the Costa Brava: once a package tour hotspot.

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